Punctures & Flat Repairs – HOW TO

A flat tyre is the one mechanical problem you are most likely to meet on a Sardinian road. Every bike we hand over carries everything needed to fix one at the roadside — this page shows you how, for both wheel systems in our fleet.

Our bikes run one of two systems. Some are tubeless: there is no inner tube inside, the tyre seals directly against the rim, and a liquid sealant closes small holes on its own. Others run a conventional inner tube. The kit in your bag is different for each, and so is the repair.

Your BTS representative tells you which system your bike has when the bike is handed over at the fitting. If you want to check for yourself: a tubeless wheel has a small lock ring holding the valve tight against the rim, and the tyre sidewall is usually marked TUBELESS or TLR.

Before anything else

Most punctures are avoidable

In Italy — and especially in Sardinia during the cycling season — the vegetation along the edge of the road is dry and almost entirely made of thorns. In our experience the majority of flats are picked up in the last two metres before a stop, not on the road itself.

  • Stay on the asphalt.Don't drift onto the gravel or the dry vegetation at the side of the road, not even to let a car past.
  • Let the car come to you.Italian drivers are used to cyclists and will move out to pass. Pulling off onto the verge adds hazards rather than removing them - loose gravel, falls and thorns.
  • Stop on the road, then walk off it.When the group takes a break, come to a stop on the asphalt and walk the bikes off the road together.
  • Lift, don't roll.Where the verge is prickly, pick the bike up rather than rolling it through the thorns.
Start here

Which bike are you riding?

Tubeless

Sealant inside, no inner tube. Your kit holds rubber plugs – the “worms” – an insertion tool, and one spare tube as a fallback.

Repair procedure

Inner tube

A conventional tube inside the tyre. Your kit holds a spare tube, patches and tyre levers.

Repair procedure
System 1 · Tubeless

Repairing a tubeless tyre

Tubeless tyres run at lower pressure than a tyre with a tube — more comfort, more grip, far fewer pinch flats. When you do puncture, the sealant usually deals with it before you even notice. When it doesn’t, you plug the hole from the outside, with the wheel still on the bike.

What you are carrying

  • A tubeless repair kit — the insertion tool and the rubber repair plugs, often called “worms”.
  • One spare inner tube, for the case where a tubeless repair is not possible.
  • Tyre levers, pump and multitool in the handlebar bag.

Two minutes, and it shows the one part that is hard to describe in words: how firmly the plug has to be pushed in.

  1. Stop somewhere safe and leave the wheel on the bike.

    A tubeless plug is fitted from the outside. There is no reason to remove the wheel or the tyre.

  2. Find the hole.

    Turn the wheel slowly and look for sealant spraying out, bubbling, or a wet patch on the tread. Listen for the hiss if you can’t see it.

  3. Turn the puncture to the bottom of the wheel and wait a few seconds.

    The sealant pools at the lowest point. Small thorn holes seal themselves here, and you may not need the plug at all.

  4. Still leaking? Pull the thorn out — and have the plug ready first.

    Load a worm into the insertion tool before you remove the object, so the hole is open for as short a time as possible.

  5. Push the plug in, firmly.

    Straight into the hole, until roughly half the worm is inside and both tails stick out. It takes more force than you expect — this is the step people get wrong.

  6. Pull the tool out and leave the plug in place.

    Give it a small twist as you withdraw the fork, so the worm stays in the tyre.

  7. Inflate and check.

    Pump back up — see how hard the tyre should feel — then turn the wheel and check the plug is holding. Sealant may weep for a few turns; that is normal.

  8. Trim the tails and ride gently for a minute.

    Cut the ends a few millimetres above the tread — never flush. Riding lets the sealant finish the seal from the inside.

If the tyre will not seal

A cut that is too large, or a tear in the sidewall, will not hold a plug. That is what the spare inner tube is for.

  1. Deflate completely and take one side of the tyre off the rim.
  2. Unscrew the lock ring and remove the tubeless valve from the rim.

    Keep it — it belongs to the wheel and we will refit it.

  3. Expect sealant.

    It will be wet and messy. Wipe out what you can before the tube goes in.

  4. Line a large cut before fitting the tube.

    An energy bar wrapper or a folded banknote between tyre and tube stops the tube bulging through the hole. It will get you to the next town.

  5. Fit the spare tube as on any other bike — the inner tube procedure below — then ride gently and tell us at the next hotel.
System 2 · Inner tube

Replacing an inner tube

At the roadside, fit the spare tube rather than patching. Patch the punctured one in the evening at the hotel, calmly, and it becomes your spare for the rest of the tour.

What you are carrying

  • One spare inner tube of the right size for your wheel.
  • A patch kit for the evening repair.
  • Tyre leverslevagomme — plus pump and multitool.
  1. Get well off the road, then shift onto the smallest sprocket.

    If it is the rear wheel, this slackens the chain and makes the wheel far easier to take out and put back.

  2. Open the brake and the axle, and take the wheel out.
  3. Let all the air out and push both beads into the centre of the rim.

    The rim is narrower in the middle. This one move is what makes the tyre come off easily.

  4. Lever one side of the tyre off.

    Two levers, a hand’s width apart. One side only — the tyre stays on the rim on the other side.

  5. Pull the tube out, valve last.
  6. Find what caused it. Do not skip this.

    Run your fingers slowly around the whole inside of the tyre — carefully, the thorn is still sharp. A thorn left in the casing will destroy the new tube within minutes. Check the rim tape as well.

  7. Put just enough air in the new tube to give it shape.

    Valve through the hole first, then tuck the tube all the way round inside the tyre.

  8. Work the bead back on by hand, finishing at the valve.

    Use levers only as a last resort, and gently — this is where most new tubes get pinched.

  9. Check all the way round, both sides, that no tube is trapped under the bead.

    Push the valve up into the tyre and back down to free it.

  10. Inflate to about half, check the bead line sits evenly all round, then inflate fully.

    With a hand pump you will almost certainly stop too early — see how hard the tyre should feel.

  11. Refit the wheel, close the axle, close the brake, and spin the wheel before you ride.

E-bikes — please read

Some of our e-bikes have a magnetic sensor mounted on the rear wheel valve. If you replace the rear inner tube, reposition that sensor correctly on the new valve. If it is not in the right position, the e-bike may not work properly.

The bike itself keeps working if the electronics fail — a flat remote battery, a displaced sensor or a failed display does not stop you riding.

Both systems

How hard should the tyre be?

The hand pump in your bag has no gauge, so at the roadside you are judging by feel. That is fine — you only need to get close enough to ride safely to the next town. Two things matter more than hitting an exact number: with an inner tube, too soft is what causes the next puncture, and with tubeless, never let the tyre go completely flat, because a hand pump cannot push the bead back onto the rim once it unseats.

Judging it by hand

  • Press the tread hard with your thumb.A road tyre should feel almost solid and barely move. A gravel tyre should give a few millimetres. A touring or hybrid tyre sits between the two.
  • Squeeze the sides between thumb and fingers.If you can pinch the two sidewalls anywhere near each other, it is far too soft.
  • Sit on the bike and look at the tyre.Correctly inflated, it flattens only slightly where it meets the road. If the sidewall visibly bulges out, keep pumping.
  • Count your strokes.The first time you inflate a tyre from flat, count the strokes it takes to feel right. From then on you have a rough gauge for the rest of the tour.
  • Keep going past “probably enough”.A hand pump gets harder to push exactly when you are still 1 bar short. Under-inflation is the most common reason a rider gets a second flat within a few kilometres.

Indicative pressures

For a rider of roughly 70–90 kg with luggage. These are starting points, not rules — and the minimum and maximum printed on the tyre sidewall always take priority over any table.

BikeTyreTubelessWith inner tube
Road25–28 mm4.5–6.0 bar 65–85 psi5.0–6.5 bar 72–95 psi
Touring / hybrid32–38 mm3.0–4.0 bar 44–58 psi3.5–4.5 bar 50–65 psi
Gravel & e-gravel38–45 mm2.0–2.8 bar 30–40 psi2.5–3.2 bar 36–46 psi
  • Front lower than rear — about 0.2 bar less, since more of your weight sits over the back wheel.
  • E-bikes are heavier. Add roughly 0.5 bar to the figures above.
  • Rain or rough gravel: take about 0.3 bar out for grip. Long smooth asphalt: put it back in.

At the end of the day

A roadside pressure set by feel is a way of getting home, not a setting to keep. At the hotel, or at any bike shop along the route, ask for a floor pump with a gauge and reset it properly — or tell us at the next stop and we will do it.

Afterwards

Once you are rolling again

  • Check the pressure the next morning.A fresh plug or a new tube can lose a little air overnight.
  • Tell us at the next hotel.We will check the repair and replace what you used, so you start the next day with a full kit.
  • Don't leave the bike alone,even locked, while you clean up or take a break. Take the cycle computer, water bottle and handlebar bag with you.
  • At the end of the tour,leave the front bike bag with the tools, the helmet, the cycle computer and the lock with its key at the desk of the last hotel.
In a bike shop

The words you might need

Every town on our routes has someone who can help. These are the words that get you there.

Puncture / flatforatura
Inner tubecamera d’aria
Tyrecopertone
Wheelruota
Valvevalvola
Tyre leverslevagomme
Pumppompa
Repair kitkit riparazione
Bike shopnegozio di biciclette
If it goes wrong

Call us

If the repair will not hold, or you would rather not do it alone, call our hot-line in Sardinia. The numbers are on the emergency contacts page of your tour handbook — worth saving to your phone on the first evening, before you need them.

Before you call

  • Open the Ride With GPS app. It shows exactly where you are on the route — the nearest town or the kilometre point is all we need to find you.
  • Say which bike and which system. Tubeless or inner tube, front or rear wheel, and what you have already tried.
  • True emergency — police or ambulance: 112. Toll free from any landline, mobile or pay phone. Call us straight afterwards.

Weather

If the weather turns while you are out, the best thing to do is wait it out, or keep riding if it doesn’t bother you. Taxis are hard to find, expensive, and often unwilling to carry a bicycle. Waiting out the weather is almost always the better choice.

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